
Product Background
The first evidence of gold chain jewelry dates back to Egypt in 7000 BCE with the classic cable chain design. Much later, 700 BCE, metal jewelry (gioielli) was popularized in Central Italy by the Etruscans. Gold chains were a symbol of spirituality as well as financial or social status - the longer the chain, the wealthier the owner. Smaller, more detailed link designs were especially coveted because of their intricacy. Ancient Roman frescos depicted their gods and goddesses adorned with body chains.
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During the Renaissance, a charm or pendant was added to the chains of the upper class to signify family loyalty or rank. Wealthier Italian women used their long gold chains as a dowry for their daughters. This resulted in the length of the chain decreasing generationally as it was divided.
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As metal production advanced during the early 19th century, the widened market ushered in a variety of new accessible link designs. Different lengths of chain were worn for distinct occasions depending on the time of day. It was trendy to sport a 20 inch chain for a matinee performance, for example, and a longer 35 inch chain for the opera. During WWII, jewelry length evolved again due to necessity as material shortages saw the rise of daintier, shorter chains. ​
To this day, the "figaro" chain and cornicello (golden horn charm) are the most popular staples of Italian jewelry design. The lucky cornicello, or corno portafortuna, is used to repel evil (malocchio).


Did you know?
​After the Renaissance in Italy, men would wear longer chains with larger links that could be used as a form of currency. Each removable link carried monetary value and usable purchasing power in place of the lira (currency from 1861-2002). ​​
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​​​"Filigree" grew into a popular jewelry-making technique for goldsmiths (oreficeria) in Italy. In this technique, thin gold or silver (oro e argento) threads were woven to create different patterns. This style of craftsmanship (arigianto) was particularly popular in Sicily and Sardinia. The designs often featured floral or lace imagery. ​​Jewelry traditions vary from region to region across Italy. The "filigree" remains a popular methodology today.
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